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Enjoy the Inland
Sea of Japan: Setonaikai |
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Recommended spots > Mihara/Onomichi
Area |
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1. Onomichi φΉ
A picturesque port town on a slope overlooking the Seto Inland
Sea. Famous for temples, views, films, literature and art.
2. Shimanami Kaido@΅άΘέCΉ: general
A series of seven bridges that start in Onomichi and lead all
the way across six islands to Imabari in Shikoku. It is possible
to cycle along the whole route.
3. Shimanami Kaido:
Setoda £Λc and Omishima εO one-day course
Setoda (on Ikuchijima Island) and Omishima Island are located
in the middle of Shimanami Kaido and offer the most in terms
of sights, landscapes and facilities. Visiting both islands
make for a nice day of cycling.
4. Yuge Island@|ν
Off the Shimanami Kaido, beaches, pine trees and onsen offer
everything for a leisurely day.
5. Mitarai
δθτ@(Osakishimojima Island@εθΊ)
An Edo-period port town right out of the history book. The town
was thriving as a trade and entertainment port for ships until
the 1940fs; nowadays it is as quiet as you could wish for!
6. Osakikamijima εθγ and Takehara |΄ |
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Access:
by local JR Sanyo line:
From Fukuyama 20min. (in the direction of Mihara, Hiroshima)
From Mihara 10 min. (in the direction of Okayama)
Shin-Onomichi station, were the Kodama-Shinkansen stops, is
very inconvenient. Changing from Shinkansen to a local train
at Fukuyama or Mihara and getting off at Onomichi station is
easier and cheaper.
In Onomichi: The Retro Bus departing from in front of
the station every 30 min. is convenient for sightseeing, for
example to reach the foot of Senko-ji Ropeway (Nagaeguchi busstop)
or Jodo-ji Tenple.
Information: pick up a basic pamphlet with a map including
English place names at the station. For more details, tourist
information offices are located in the large modern shell-shaped
hall to the right of the station and in the shopping arcade.
Onomichi
has a lot of character and personality that a lot of other towns
on the coastal Inland Sea belt lack. It is famous for its picturesque
hillside location with winding alleys and stairways, spectacular
views of the Seto Inland Sea, many beautiful temples and a rich
heritage of literature, art and films. The most spectacular
of it's temples is undoubtedly Senko-ji ,
on top of the hill just behind the station. There is a quaint
little park on the top of the hill with an art museum partly
designed by Tadao Ando. The park has plenty spots to have a
coffee, lick at an ice-cream of any flavour or just sit and
admire the view. It is particularly pretty in spring when the
entire park is brought to life by the flowering of the Sakura
(cherry blossom) trees and the throng of tourists which flock
from all over to partake in 'hanami' each year.
Half-day course: If you have little time to spare, concentrate
on Senko-ji and its surroundings. From the station, turn left,
cross the railway and choose any of the paths leading up between
the houses along the steep slope. The map and signs along the
way will help you not to get too lost - but then again, getting
lost is the best part of visiting Onomichi, as you will discover
small gardens, galleries, cafes and mini-museums along your
way. You can also take a bus and then the ropeway to reach the
top of Senko-ji Park.
On
top of Senko-ji Park, don't miss climbing to the viewing platform!
Then head down along the Path of Literature (
Bungaku no komichi). It features 24 stones, carved with memorable
quotes from Japanese authors somehow linked to Onomichi; alas,
they're all in Japanese, but it's a pleasant stroll just the
same. You will soon reach Senko-ji Temple, the largest temple
on the hill, spectacularly located between large rocks. Continue
to the bottom of the hill, where the path merges with the well-signposted
Historical Temple Walk (
Kodera-meguri), which connects 25 of Onomichi's better-known
temples in a 2-kilometer east-west walk. Senko-ji is #7, heading
west will take you back to the train station while at the eastern
end (#23) is Jodo-ji ().
Alternatively you can walk back to the station through the 'hondori'
or covered shopping district which is still very much alive
and has some interesting retro style shops, for example a former
public bath turned cafe.
Whole day course: take the Retro Bus to Jodo-ji and walk your
way back along Historical Temple Walk, up to Senko-ji Park and
back to the station, enjoying the view of the sea and the leisurely
atmosphere of the old town.
Eat and rest: Onomichi is awash with coffee shops, one of the
most popular being Commons (http://www.common.jp/index2.html)
at the foot of the ropeway, famous for its waffles. However,
there are not many restaurants along the hillside, so to eat
something substantial, you will have to leave the temple loop
walk and look around the shopping arcade or along the road parallel
to the sea.
Onomichi Ramen is a well known and popular soup based noodles
dish. The soup is made from a soysauce and slightly fishy base
with pork, spring onions and bamboo shoots. Popular shops are
Shukaen
south of the ropeway station on the wide street leading towards
the sea, which always has a long queue outside, and Tsutafuji
-
just round the corner from Shukaen. You can also enjoy Italian
food in a pizzeria just opposite Tsutafuji.
Accommodation:
The Green Hill Hotel
http://www.hotwire.co.jp/gho/index_e.html
occupies the best location, opposite the station on the sea
front. The first floor of the Hotel serves as Port Terminal,
from a cafe terrace on the second floor you can watch the ships
come and go.
Links:
English tourist information:
http://www.city.onomichi.hiroshima.jp/kanko/english/touristspots.html |
Access:
By bus: from Fukuyama by Shimanami Liner
By boat: there are frequent high-speed boats from
Mihara
to Setoda and less frequent
from Mihara to Omishima and from
Onomichi to Setoda or
Innoshima.
By bicycle: Shimanami Kaido is a popular cycling course.
See below for details.
The Shimanami Kaido is
a series of 7 bridges that start in
Onomichi and lead all
the way across 6 islands to Imabari
in Shikoku. An increasingly
popular way to take in the views
at a slow pace and not
behind the window of a car is by bicycle.
The Onomichi Shimanami
Council has set up a very reasonable
bicycle rental service,
whereby you can rent or return bicycles
at any one of the 'stations'
on the islands, in Onomichi or
Imabari.
Prices: adults: 500yen
per day; children: 300yen per day;
electrically assisted
bicycle: 800yen per day. Each bicycle
requires a 1000yen deposit
that will be lost if you return
the bicycle at a different
station and a passport or drivers
licence for ID.
Rent a cycle at the Municipal
Parking Garage behind the Green
Hill Hotel in Onomichi,
5min. walk from the station along
the coast. Then take
the ferry opposite from the station crossing
the Onomichi channel
to Mukaijima constantly. There you can
start cycling along the
designated course.
Each island has a unique
atmosphere and the cycle course follows
smaller roads or a separate
route to the cars, so for the
most part you can cycle
in peace and tranquillity admiring
the views. The views
along the way are breathtaking and if
you go at the right time
of year, spring is by far the best,
you can see lots of ripe
mikans (oranges) or lemons and many
other types of flowers
which line the route along the way.
The total distance from
Onomichi to Imabari is
Town |
@ |
Distance(km) |
Onomichi |
Mukaishima |
Ferry
(frequent crossings) |
Mukaishima |
Innoshima |
8.1 |
Innoshima |
Ikuchijima(Setoda) |
12.9 |
Ikuchijima(Setoda) |
Omishima |
19.2 |
Omishima |
Hakata |
9.6 |
Hakata |
Oshima |
5.9 |
Oshima |
Imabari IC |
11.5 |
Imabari IC |
Imabari city |
40 |
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Total to Imabari IC |
67.2km to city =107.2k |
Depending on your fitness
and luggage the one way trip across
the bridges is feasible
in one day, but you have more time
to enjoy the islands
if you stay for a night. Alternatively
you can combine bike,
bus and boat to enjoy parts of the cycling
course.
Another possibility to
enjoy this area is by sea-kayak,
which
allows you to see the
bridges from water level.
It is also
possible to combine kayak
and cycling. Currents in
this area,
for example under the
last bridge to Shikoku,
are up to 6
knots strong, so it is
advisable to start with
a guided tour.
Links:
General information
in English can be found on the HP of
Systematized Goodwill
Guide Club:
http://home.e-catv.ne.jp/tour-ehime/
All you need to know
about the Shimanami Kaido including
access, rental cycles,
accommodation, - unfortunately in
Japanese:
http://www.go-shimanami.jp/
Kayak: SETOUCHI Seakayak
Adventures Murakami Suigun (Contact:
Mr. Murakami)
Tel: 090-8718-4141
e-mail:m-yasu@qd5.so-net.ne.jp
(Engl. mail ok)
http://www.kayak.ne.jp/murakamisuigun/
For bus times of Shimanami
Liner, which connects all the
islands:
http://www.urban.ne.jp/home/chubus/shima2.htm
(Jap.)
For boat times, the
Minato Navi page has a little English.
Click "operation
schedule by line", and you can
find the necessary
boat connections and a map:
http://www2.uminet.jp/mihara/index.php
Accommodation:
The best choice is
to stay on one of the middle islands,
either Setoda (Ikuchijima)
or Omishima.
Omishima: there are
two big and modern campsites with showers,
tent-hire, restaurants
and barbeque rentals. The first is
just below the Tatara
bridge to Setoda, called the Toitakaigan
Campsite, and the other
is the Mori Campsite not quite as
big but still very
well equipped.
http://itp.ne.jp/contents/kankonavi/ehime/camp/ehi_cam03.html
(Jap.)
Furusato Ikoi no Ie
offers the unique experience
of staying in an old wooden
school building right
on the coast, 20 min. by bus or 30
by bike from Oyamazumi-jinja
Shrine. Omishima Furusato Ikoi
no Ie 5208-1 Munakata,
Omishima-cho, Imabari. Phone: 0897-83-1111
(Jap.)
Setoda: there are youth
hostels and a few ryokan; check
below for the youth
hostel:
http://www.jyh.or.jp/english/chugoku/shimana/index.html
There is a campsite
at Sunset Beach and a KOA log-house
camping on the southern
coast
http://koa.com/where/Japan/134101.htm
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Access:
By boat: Mihara Port: 5 min. walk South of Mihara
Station: Cross the traffic-light, follow
the board-walk sideway and then the underground
passage.
Onomichi Port:
opposite the station
on the ground floor of the Green Hill Hotel.
High-speed boat Mihara-Setoda (boats almost
every 30 minutes, 30 min. ride); Mihara-Omishima
(Iguchi Port) (6 boats per day, 40 min.),
Onomichi - Setoda (9 boats per day, 40 min.).
As there are fewer boats to Omishima, you
will be more flexible if you start from there
and cycle to Setoda.
Boat Schedule:
http://www2.uminet.jp/mihara/index.php
(Mainly Jap.)
Rental Cycle:
Omishima: at the foot
of Tatara-Ohashi Bridge (to Setoda)
or next to Oyamazumi-jinja
Shrine. Setoda: At the tourist
information office at
the Belcante Hall and at Sunset Beach.
The
main attraction of Omishima
island is Oyamazumi-jinja ,
a very big and impressive
shrine. The museum next to the shrine
houses 80% of Japan's
samurai swords and artifacts, definitely
worth a visit. From Omishima
Iguchi Port, take a local bus
(to Miyaura-ko Port ,
8 buses per day, 6 min.)
or taxi to Oyamazumi-jinja. Leaving
the shrine, to the left,
you will find restaurants and souvenir
shops; to the right,
there is the cycle station where you
can rent your bike for
the day. Buy something for a picnic,
as there are few shops
until you reach Setoda. Follow the
cycle road over the hill
through mandarin groves almost back
to Iguchi Port and along
the coast to the second cycle station
at the foot of Tatara-ohashi
bridge .
On the way, you will
see
Tatara-onsen on the right
side, a pleasant little hot spring
were you can relax for
\300.
After a steep climb to
the bridge, you will have a spectacular
view of the sea and surrounding
islands. Throw the fee for
the bridge (\100) in
the box at the entrance. From the bridge,
a pleasant ride below
palm-trees along the sea-side will take
you first to Sunset-Beach
(beach, restaurant, campsite, sports
facilities), then past
Setoda Youth Hostel into Setoda.
On the way, you can enjoy
some artwork, like a structure with
white wings standing
in the sea. In Setoda, hand back the
cycles at the tourist
information.
If you like special but
a bit strange places, don't miss
Kosan-ji Temple.
Inside the spacious temple
grounds, you can climb up to the
hill covered in white
Italian marble or dive into the depth
of the Buddhist hell
cave.
http://www.kousanji.or.jp/etop.htm
There is also an art
museum with pictures of Hirayama Ikuo,
a Japanese-style painter
born on the island. A 15 min. stroll
along Shiomachi shopping
street will take you to Setoda Port. |
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Access:
Unfortunately, boat connections
to Mitarai
and Ocho, the nearest port,
have been reduced
rapidly, especially since
the island has
been connected to Honshu
by the Akinada Tobishima
Kaido, a set of four bridges.
Access from Mihara: JR Kure Line to Takehara High-speed boat
Takehara Port -Ocho (40min.,
6 boats per
day, about 1200\) http://www.boyo.co.jp/sanyo/
Access from Hiroshima: by bus from Hiroshima Bus Center or Hiroshima
Station (2h20min., 4 buses
per day, about
2000\) http://www.h-buscenter.com/kamagari.html
Mitarai
used to be the main
port providing daily necessaries and
a little food to the
returning northerly trade ships, but
it also became a transit
trade port which bought products
from other provinces
such as rice from the ships and resold
them to other places.
Mitarai, which has been designated
as a historic conservation
district of national importance
,
was built in the Edo
period and flourished as an ocean and
domestic port. This
port used to be a relay point for carrying
rice, herring and seaweed
grown along the Japan Sea coast
to Osaka and Kyoto,
and especially the "Mitarai price"
of rice is famous for
having adjusted its supply and demand
at this port with an
eye to the average price of the rice
in Osaka.
Another interesting
point is that the port was often used
as a resting point
by feudal samurai lords, on their way
to and from Edo, the
old capital. This, along with the visits
of Dutch traders and
merchants, created a vibrant atmosphere,
bringing together wealth
and culture. Even after ships didn't
rely on wind and tides
any more, they would stop by in Mitarai
to enjoy the entertainment
quarters. Only after 1945 has
the place declined
in importance and become the quiet spot
visitors enjoy. These
days, 50% of the island's population
is over 65 years old.
The
building of the information
center, Shiomachikan
was rented by a generous
local landowner and the residents
fixed the interior
and the facilities by themselves. There
are volunteer tour
guides here. (Tel: 08466-7-2278)
Acitivities:
discover the old port
town with the stone steps leading
into the water, climb
History Hill
to enjoy the view and
see the graveyard of the courtesans
who used to work in
the town, sit at the harbour and look
at the waves, cycle
round the island or across some small
bridges to the neigbouring
island. If you understand Japanese,
a tour with the volunteer
guides adds a whole new dimension
to the place. Some
of the buildings are open to the public,
for example Otome-za
,
a former cinema, and
Wakaebisu-ya ,
a former brothel.
There are very few
restaurants in Mitarai, and these few
often close on Sundays,
so you might want to buy a picnic.
Accommodation:
Furusato Gakuen
is a nice old school
building were you can stay and cook for
yourself for a very reasonable
price of 1500\.
Sea Station Yutakamachi
(
Umi no eki Yutakamachi,@Umi
no eki Yutakamachi, Tel. 08466-7-2250
(Jap.)) is a little hotel
close to the ferry Port of Ocho
(with a short o, not
to confuse with Ocho with a long o!)
with an adjacent pleasure
boat harbour for visiting boats,
a small convenience store
and a cafe with bakery. |
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Access:
the same boat that goes
to Mitarai and Ocho stops at four
harbours on Osakikamijima
on the way, the most important being
Tenman
in Kinoe Village
and Nakaura .
The main attraction on
Osakikamijima is the hot spring at
the Seifukan Hotel ,
where you can enjoy a
spectacular view of the islands while
soaking in an outdoor
bath. Below the hotel, there is also
a small beach. The hotel
is about 30 minutes walk from both
ports; if you stay overnight
or travel in a group, there is
a pick-up service.
Hiking: If you arrive at Tenman, you will soon notice
a very colourful Chinese
style building on the way to Seifukan.
This is the local community
hall. An elevator leads to the
graveyard on the second
floor; from there you can start to
hike up Mt. Kamizaki
,
which offers a good view
from its 452m hight.
From here, you can also
take a boat to Takehara
on the mainland, another
charming town with a well preserved
townscape. From there,
it is 20 min. by JR Kure line to Mihara or
30 min. by shuttle bus to Hiroshima Airport.
Accommodation:
Seifukan; Bath only 1000
\, Overnight stay including meals
from about 15.000\.
http://www.hotel-seifukan.co.jp/top.html
(Jap.) |
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